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Cambodia – Kingdom of Wonder

Tijana at the Angkor Wat Temple
Tijana at the Angkor Wat Temple.

Cambodia is truly the Kingdom of Wonder. I have a feeling that some places are destined for you, and Cambodia is one of those places for me. It stole my heart. Rarely do I go to the same place twice, but Cambodia never fails to pull me back to its exquisite land. From the wondrous temples and floating trees to its world-renowned Kampot pepper, there is something for everyone in this beautiful tropical country.

Cambodia is a predominately Buddhist Southeast Asian nation. The landscape spans from the low-lying plains, the Mekong Delta, mountains, to the Gulf of Thailand. Within the capital of Phnom Penh, you’ll find an art deco Central Market, an intricate Royal Palace, and the National Museum’s historical and archaeological exhibits. Towards the northwest is the ruins of Angkor Wat, a massive temple complex built during the Khmer Empire.

Angkor Wat was added to the World Heritage List on December 14, 1992.

The Angkor Empire

Angkor Wat Temple Cambodia
The wonder of Angkor Wat Temple.

Cambodia’s culture has its roots in the 1st to 6th centuries. First known as the state Funan, the area gradually transformed into the Angkor Empire. Over the course of 600 years, Cambodia saw powerful Khmer kings dominate much of present-day Southeast Asia. The kingdom ruled in all directions, from the borders east Myanmar to the south China Sea and north to Laos. During this period the Khmer kings built the most extensive concentration of religious temples in the world – the Angkor temple complex.

Simultaneously, they devised a masterpiece of ancient engineering – a sophisticated irrigation system. The system includes a number of gigantic manmade lakes and canals that ensured as many as 3 rice crops a year. Remarkably, part of this system is still in use today.

Angkor Temple Cambodia
Beautiful temple at Angkor Wat Archeological Park.


Monks in http://tree-alliance.org/our-restaurants/romdeng.php?mm=or&sm=rd
Monks at Angkor Wat.

The Angkor Wat Temple in Cambodia

The Angkor Wat is a temple complex in Cambodia and is known as the largest religious monument in the world. The entire site measures upwards of 162.6 hectares. Originally constructed during the Khmer Empire as a Hindu temple dedicated to the god Vishnu, it was gradually transformed into a Buddhist temple towards the end of the 12th century. 

The inside of the Angkor Wat Temple in Cambodia.
Angkor Wat Temple from the inside. Tijana.


Temple monkey eating fruits
Monkey eating fruits.


Lunch at the Angkor Wat Temple grounds.
Lunch break at the Angkor Wat Temple grounds.

Bayon Temple

Bayon Temple - Siem Reap in Cambodia
Fascinating Bayon Temple – Siem Reap.

 

The Bayon Temple is one of the more famous, popular, and beautiful temples in the Angkor Wat Archeological Park. It is also called Jayavarman’s Temple, in honor of the Khmer king who ordered its construction. It’s best known for its 54 towers decorated with 216 gigantic gently smiling faces of Avalokiteshvara on each side.

Bayon Temple Profile of the face and  Stone art.
Bayon Temple Detail. Side of the face.

Ta Prohm Temple

Ta Prohm Temple Cambodia
The root of Banyan Tree on the Ta Prohm Temple in Cambodia.

Constructed in 1186, and originally known as Rajavihara (Monastery of the King), Ta Prohm is a Buddhist temple dedicated to the mother of Jayavarman VII. It is one of the few temples in the Angkor region where an inscription provides information about the temple’s dependents and inhabitants. It has been left untouched by archaeologists except for structural strengthening to stave of further deterioration. This temple is often known to the wider public as a temple in Lara Croft: Tomb Raider movie.

Ta Prohm Temple Cambodia Tree Roots
Ta Prohm temple detail.

Ta Prohm is the undisputed capital of the Kingdom of the Trees. Fig, banyan and kapok trees spread their gigantic roots over stones, probing walls and terraces apart, as their branches and leaves intertwine to form a roof over the structures. Trunks of trees intertwine with stone pillars. Thus the strange, haunted charm of the place entwines itself about you as you go, as inescapably as the roots have wound themselves about the walls and towers.

Between the tree roots at Ta Prohm in Cambodia.
Tijana at magnificent Ta Prohm in Cambodia.

Ta Prohm temple is very serene and beautiful in the early morning. 

Ta Prohm Siem Reap
The Ta Prohm temple is fascinating beyond words.

Banteay Srei Temple

Banteay Srei Temple in Cambodia.
Banteay Srei. 

The terracotta colors and the sculptures of this temple are simply amazing! Banteay Srei is a 10th-century Cambodian temple dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva. The temple’s name means the citadel of the women or citadel of beauty. It’s probably related to the intricacy of the carvings found on the walls and the tiny dimensions of the buildings themselves. Banteay Srei is built largely of hard red sandstone that can be carved like wood.

 Banteay Srei sculptures in Cambodia
There are so many wonderful ways to discover Banteay Srei. 

This is the most significant example of a so-called private temple. A temple that is not built on the order of a king and does not serve state purposes.

Banteay Srei. Statues detail.
Close up of the fantastic sculptures in Banteay Srei.

Cambodia – Lush Countryside

Cambodia Countryside
Beautiful people of Cambodia drive on this vibrant red soil.


Rice Fields in Cambodia
Cambodia is where I saw rice fields for the first time!


Traditional cambodian sweets
Traditional Cambodian sweets. So delicious.


Lotus Flowers
Lotus Flowers.


Monks in Cambodia
A quick photo from the bus trip. I loved the color of the robes of the Buddhist monks.


Small store on the way to Siem reap
Little stores along the way from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap.


A Poignant Cambodian Story

 Cambodian Girl
An unforgettable face, the Cambodian girl. An epitome of grace.

This little girl is my favorite Cambodian story and will always have a special place in my heart. I came across her as she was selling postcards and little souvenirs, but I had bought so many already. This lovely girl was so polite and I wanted to help and donate some money. She didn’t want to take it at all. She would only take it if I accepted a gift from her. The children here are so well brought up. Proud and full of honor.

What a truly remarkable child. You meet very special people in the most unlikely places. They enter your life, change it, make it better. She is very young but has incredible morales. A true gem. These values are why I fell in love with Cambodia, hard.

Tonlé Sap Lake and Floating Village

Floating Forest Tonle Sap Lake
Floating Mangrove Forrest – an enchanted world.

The Tonle Sap Lake is famous for its floating villages. You’ll find several communities on stilted homes nearby in the Siem Reap, Battambang and Pursat provinces.

Each of these floating villages will have a flooded (sometimes called floating) forest nearby. Within the flooded forest is a collection of dense mangroves that grow on the banks of the Tonle Sap. They are referred to as flooded or floating forests because during part of the year they fill with water. This makes them navigable only by boat. The Siem Reap flooded forests are critically important to fishermen as they are rich in shrimp, fish, and a source of wood for cooking.

Fisherman Cambodia
Fisherman in Cambodian Tonle Sap Lake.


Floating Village Tonle Sap lake
A floating village at Tonlé Sap Lake.


Restaurant on the Tonle Sap lake
Restaurant in the middle of Tonle Sap lake.

A Brief History of Cambodia

Silver pagoda at the Royal Palace.

This Asian country has a long and international past. The 15th to 17th centuries were a time when Siam and Vietnam fought over Cambodia. By the mid-1800s European colonial powers and many Asian countries put pressure on the land. In 1863, King Norodom signed a Protectorate Treaty with France. After the second world war, the Japanese ousted the French.

Independence

In 1953, King Sihanouk succeeded in winning independence for Cambodia. This moment ended the 90 years under French protectorate. Throughout the 1950s and ’60s, Cambodia was once again self-sufficient and prospered.

Khmer Rouge

The growing war in Vietnam in 1970 spilled over into Cambodia. Consequently, the government was overthrown by the Khmer Rouge. Tragically, the ensuing four years were known as the “Reign of Terror.” Under Pol Pot’s Democratic Kampuchea, an estimated 1.7 million people lost their lives – nearly a quarter of Cambodia’s 1975 population.

The Royal Palace gate at the capital Phnom Penh.

Modern Cambodia

A constitution was adopted in 1993, the same year King Norodom Sihanouk returned to the throne. Since then the country is known as a unitary dominant-party parliamentary elective constitutional monarchy. King Sihanouk was a symbol of national unity to his people. After his death, he was accordingly succeeded by his son Norodom Sihamoni, who is now the king of Cambodia.

Life in the Capital – Phnom Phen

Cambodia Phnom Penh
Phnom Penh, Cambodia.


Monks Phnom Pehn
Buddhist Monks in front of the Royal Palace. Phnom Penh, Cambodia.


Tuk-Tuk Cambodia
The best way to go around. Tuk-Tuk. So much fun!


Phnom Penh, Cambodia
One of the squares. Phnom Penh, Cambodia.


Cambodia - Kingdom of Wonder
This is such a common scene on the streets.
I also loved the billboard – the Kingdom of Wonder.

The National Museum of Cambodia

National Museum of Cambodia in  Phnom Penh
National Museum. Phnom Penh, Cambodia.

The National Museum of Cambodia in Phnom Penh is Cambodia’s largest museum. It tells tales with attention to its colorful cultural history and is known as the country’s leading historical and archaeological museum.

A historic exponent at the museum.

Art in Cambodia

Em Riem

Em Riem
Em Riem. Artist.

Em Riem is a fantastic discovery. His gallery is a mixture of the traditional and the modern, the colorful and the monochromatic, abstract works, and the portraits. With all the art that’s displayed in his white-painted space, the multitalented artist Em Riem is a breath of fresh air in Cambodia’s contemporary art scene.

From a tender age, he knew he had an affinity for the arts. Now he has a prominent group of art collectors. He draws inspiration from Cambodia and its amazing people.

Em Riem Art
Art. Em Riem. Cambodia.


Riem studied in graphic arts from the Royal University of Fine Arts in Phnom Penh and continued his art education in France at the Ecole des Beaux-Arts de Saint Etienne and the Ecole Nationale Superieure des Arts Decoratifs in Paris. He came back from a successful career in France to rebuild the art scene in Cambodia. The devastating impact of Khmer Rouge’s rule not only took millions of lives but also destroyed lot of art heritage in the country.

Em Riem’s talent goes beyond painting. In short, his talent expands into sculpture, stunning rattan Khmer furniture design, modern ceramics, and ingenious fashion. Riem’s beautiful gallery near by National Museum in Phnom Penh has become a home for all his creations. I had a tremendous joy discovering it on my last day where we had a long and very interesting conversation. I was so amazed by his talent and an immense creativity.

Sokvannara (Sy) Sar

Sokvannara (Sy) Sar was born in Siem Reap, Cambodia, where he studied traditional Khmer dance from the age of 10 at the Wat Bo School. When he reached the age of 16, he was invited to come to New York to study at the School of American Ballet.

Must see, the beauty of Sy’s dance. This dance with Sy is choreographed by renowned Benjamin Millepied (husband of Natalie Portman), who also did dance choreography for a “Black Swan” movie. Enjoy also in seeing the bit of beautiful Cambodia.

Late to begin ballet training, Sy was coached by the distinguished teacher Olga Kostritzky. In fact, he exceeded all obstacles and developed a great ballet career with multiple dance companies in the USA. This poster above shows him working with renowned Philip Glass. I was lucky enough to watch the documentary about him in his beloved Cambodia. I highly recommend watching this movie for all the dance lovers.

Cambodia Travel Tips

Beautiful Cambodian Flowers
Fragrant flowers of Cambodia. A heavenly scent.

Seasons

Cambodia is a tropical country– it’s located just above the equator– with a usual temperature range of 70 to 95 °F (21 to 35 °C). There’s no harsh winter, and in fact, no winter at all. You might need a sweater, some cover up or pashmina since many buses, offices, and stores are air-conditioned.

In essence, Cambodia has three seasons:

  1. The rainy monsoon season, which is typically from June to October.
  2. November to May is the dry season. This is the beginning of cooler weather split into cold from November to February. That is the best time to visit.
  3. The hot season runs from March to May.

In fact Cambodian cold is actually very pleasant warm weather. I was twice in Cambodia, once in December which was absolutely perfect weather and in May which is very hot. If you go in May (or during hottest months) you will not be able to see floating villages and forests. That would be a pity.

Boat Tonle Sap Lake
In the moment and loving every second.

Tickets for Angkor Wat

I recommend taking 3 days to see the full beauty of the Angkor Wat temples. They vary in history and style with each temple telling a unique story. If you don’t have time, then I recommend seeing Angkor Wat, Bayon Temple, and Ta Prohm. You need to purchase an Angkor Pass at the official center to visit the temples in Angkor Archaeological Park.

It’s important to remember that you can’t purchase your entrance ticket upfront. However, they offer 1-3-7 day passes. Personally, I took the 3-day pass.

Cambodia Temple
Angkor Wat Temples. Tijana.


The entrance ticket can be paid in cash or by credit card with an ATM located on-site. You can use USD as a currency in Cambodia, but please check prior to the trip if that had changed. When you book a taxi or tuk-tuk driver for the day, he will bring you to the ticket office before entering the park.

Finally, go very early to experience the sunset. It is truly magical. I recommend taking a guide. My guide Sareth was amazing, extremely professional, and very knowledgable. I learned a lot during our tour and highly recommend him. His email is sarethryton@yahoo.com.

Where to Stay

Cambodian hospitality is legendary. Without a doubt, you can be sure the people you meet will always go above and beyond. They are a very kind society and always treat you as a welcomed guest, not a tourist. Moreover, Cambodia is one of the few rare places where everything looked better in real life than on the internet. The next time I am planning to stay at Phum Baitang. There are so many wonderful choices where to stay in Siem Reap.

Surprisingly, so many things were included in the room price – like a spa treatment, lunch box for a day trip, one dinner, and so on. When you arrive from a long international flight you do not go reception. Instead, you are seated in a heavenly garden and the receptionist comes to you. At the same time, you are served with a delicious snack, a refreshing beverage, and a towel. This treatment was consistent at both tiny locations or large luxurious places.

Cambodian people are incredibly considerate. Despite their very hard history, they have kept their hearts. The people are one of the biggest reasons I love Cambodia so much.

Hotel yard Phnom Penh
Charming yard.

Room decoration Cambodia
Room decoration – very zen and stylish.

What to Eat

Delicious shrimp salad with fresh herbs.


Cambodia - Fish Amok
Fish Amok is a delicious traditional Cambodian dish.

Romdeng Restaurant is a beautiful French Villa in Phnom Penh is one of the few places that have tarantula on its regular menu. Romdeng is an NGO restaurant that helps train disadvantaged kids to cook so that they have skills for the future. While dining you will be supporting a great cause!

Cambodia - Fish Market
The Fish Market in Cambodia. Fish is super fresh and usually alive.


Market Place Cambodia
Cambodian open market.

More of Cambodia – Stay Tuned

Cambodia Pepper Farm



Orchard at the marvelous Cambodian Pepper Farm.

This photo series was my first trip to Cambodia. Since then I made one more trip to this beautiful country. On each trip I take, I try a new experience, travel to new locations, and meet incredible people along the way who will forever hold a place in my heart. Stay tuned for more enchanting Cambodian stories.

All photos are by Tijana.

Where Is It?

22 comments

  • Ilmari

    I really want to see that, immediately when travel becomes a bit easier.

    • zestandcuriosity (author)

      Oh, you are going to have an amazing trip! I am so glad that it inspired you to travel to see Cambodia. Five of my friends have already visited. Such a special place.

  • svetislav

    Тhis dish with fried tarantula …….is the top. It only remains for the readers “to sincerely envy” the spiritual wealth that the journey has given you !

    • zestandcuriosity (author)

      Thank you for this fabulous reply Svetislav. I was bit hesitant about a tarantula, but the restaurant was for a good cause and this was a perfect opportunity to try it. Portion actually includes 2, but I was not that brave. However, since it is actually surprisingly tasty, I was a bit sad that I didn’t have one more. I think these kinds of experiences stretch us, in so many ways. And for that, I am forever grateful. I love the way you formulated the whole experience – it is truly a spiritual wealth. Always amazing to hear from you!

  • Bea

    I can see that your heart belongs there. You must go back. I so much enjoyed seeing your photos and love for Cambodia. Thank you for sharing it with us.

    • zestandcuriosity (author)

      Oh, you are so kind! Cambodia will always have the most special place in my heart. I long to go back as soon as possible. All the best to you.

  • Mahesh

    Very nice

    • zestandcuriosity (author)

      Thank you so much! Cambodia is a very special place for me.

  • fbmtl

    Great article 📖 & beautiful photos as usual Tijana !!! 👌📸😍

    • zestandcuriosity (author)

      Thank you so much, I am so glad that you enjoyed in the Kingdom of Wonder. What a special place. I cannot wait to go back. wonderful to hear from you.

  • Lea

    Thank you for this fantastic site. I am looking around at the other comments, and wonder if I’m the only one here who gets this blog.

  • Andrej

    A wonderful travel diary, Tijana! I have always wanted to go to Cambodia, it is one of my primary Asian destinations for future travels. I am forever obsessed with Angkor Wat. Your photos, your stories just whet my appetite for travel even more. Thank you!

    • zestandcuriosity (author)

      Oh Andrej, it is probably my favorite place to travel among many amazing places we have on this planet of ours. Cambodia has heart and soul. You must go there and tell me all about it.

  • Filozofia

    Thank you for another great post.

    • zestandcuriosity (author)

      My pleasure. Cambodia is such a special place for me. Glad that you enjoyed it.

  • Jap

    Thank you so much for this! I have not been this moved by a post for a long time! You have got it, whatever that means in blogging. Well, Youre definitely somebody that has something to say that people need to hear. Keep up the good work. Keep on inspiring the people!

    • zestandcuriosity (author)

      I am so glad that you enjoyed it! Cambodia is such a special place for me. Stay tuned for more. 🙂

  • Joseph

    Fascinating web presence and vignettes on Cambodia, where I’m located. Lemme know if you visit Sihanoukville, the port city completely transformed into a brutalist ghost town necessitated by the shock Sino development that was suddenly interrupted by Covid and an online gambling ban. Surprising spots of beauty remain and emerge from the mud and concrete.

    • zestandcuriosity (author)

      Yes, the glimpses of beauty we can see anywhere if we know where to look for. I have spent only one night in Sihanoukville, at the beach and it was lovely place. I would like to see your gems. Thank you for the kind words about the website, I appreciate it.

      I would like to invite you to join my newsletter – and to have you as a part of circle of art and culture travel lovers.

      http://bit.ly/JoinZestAndCuriosity

  • Frederic

    Very nice post. I just stumbled upon your weblog and wanted to mention that I’ve really enjoyed surfing around your weblog posts. In any case I will be subscribing to your feed and I am hoping you write once more very soon!

  • Glen N

    Some genuinely good blog posts on this web site, appreciate it for contribution.

  • Corey

    Gold. I think clients would love this.

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